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spokeshave
Wondering if anyone has experience with this type of tool? Looks like it might be handy for tweaking the concave heel-to-shaft and headstock-to-shaft transition areas.
The pneumatic cushioned drum sanders work good for these areas but I'm always looking for less dust.
Thanks
Nelson

Nelson, I'm with you on the less dust thing, but I've never had much luck with blades on mahogany. They tend to want to tear out the mahogany, and lift it rather than cut it (yes my blades are always sharp as I know someone will chime in with that one).
I have settled on a Nicholson rasp with random teeth. It hogs off the material pretty quickly and it can be used as a less invasive tool simply by lightening the touch.
Sorry, not the answer you were looking for.

i have one of the original millers falls versions of which those you refer to are a copy, and i believe kelly tool works or similar are still making one as well. i managed to aquire mine for a pricely $2.00 in a junk shop some years ago.

i have not found it to be terribly useful, but then again i haven't put in a very significant effort to master it either.

Paul, Michael and Todd.
Thanks for your feedback.
I do use microplanes, flat and rounded to rough carve the neck. Going to try one of their smaller round versions for the transition areas mentioned above. Will defer trying the round spokeshave for now.
I'm also designing an aluminum index fixture that will let the necks tilt 90 degrees left or right as well as rotate on a turntable to facilitate carving. The fixture will work for some of the fretwork also.
Probably should just put all this effort into setting it up on CNC but hate to miss out on the hand carving.
Nelson

Which of the Auriou rasps do you recommend?

I have a pair of Veritas spokeshaves (A and B in the photos), one with a flat sole and one with a curved sole. I use the flat soled one for establishing the neck contour, and I like it. It does a good job. I bought the round sole one for working on the neck heel and the headstock/neckshaft transition, but the problem I've always had with it is it tends to roll around when I'm trying to use it, resulting in a cut that is not even. I still use it some for this task, but only for very rough work. Chisels work better I've found.

For most of the heel contouring I do, while I would prefer a quicker way to do it, I still use rasps and files. The rasps I use most often are a regular old Nicholson 4-in-hand and a detailing file. I find the detailing file to be indespensible for getting things just right, especially when contouring a classical heel, where the heel block (and later the sides) are often obstructions.

Best,

Michael

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